Hello chaps,
This is about my attempts to ward off starvation, I figured it deserved a post of its own.
We’ve been eating out for the most part at Stolovayas (short
for stolovaya komnata – dining room) which are frequented by the locals and you
can get a good Russian meal for about £1-2, if not a little less. Our kitchen
facilities here are limited – we’ve only got hot water and bowls, so we’re
living for part of the time off instant soup/noodles/porridge (very Russian).
The restaurants are not really worth going to as Russian
service is much slower than the slowest English service I’ve ever encountered
and the food is not really worth it – I’ve had consistently better Russian food
at a stolovaya than at a restaurant here. I guess they’re OK if you fancy
something like spag bol which stolovayas tend not to serve, but the best borsch
and plov comes from the nearest stolovaya. Plus there is a good proportion of
stolovayas which are open 24 hours a day. Bonus.
Stolovayas are self-service canteens which are completely
no-frills, with basic tables, basic cutlery and basic décor. However, rather
like the English coffee shop, I can only imagine they are a complete mine of
gossip, especially if one is a regular. There was one in the centre of Kazan
called Dom Blini (house of pancakes) at which I was pretty much a regular – I started
recognising the staff and they started recognising me and I always ordered the
same thing – blini s kuritsey (chicken filled pancakes).
The Russians don’t really have the same relationship with
curry as the British – presumably as a result of our colonialist history and
the old Spice route, but I don’t know enough about that to really make a
judgement. Instead, the Russians as a nation absolutely LOVE sushi. They have
sushi restaurants where we might have a curry house in England – if not more of
them. This was the case in Kazan last summer and it’s also the case here in Piter.
I’ve had the best sushi of my life in
Russia to the extent that I largely refuse to eat it in England, bar the
occasional Yo Sushi! Blue Monday, as it’s just not as good. (Yes, I am aware of
how pretentious this is and I can imagine anyone who’s been to Japan that may
read this will be laughing with incredulity right now).
So while Russian people don’t do curry, there are some
things they do well including:
PLOV – Like Pilaf in Middle-Eastern cuisine, this is a rice
based dish with (usually) meat and spices. It’s a little more oily than its
English counterparts, but everything in Russia is.
SOUP – this goes under a number of guises, so I’ll list each
one separately. There is a Russian proverb that is essentially ‘If you eat your
soup every day then you won’t get constipated’. Nice.
UKHA (or yxa in Cyrillic) – This is fish soup. It is a
little bit like chowder but much less creamy. It’s really delicious – when I’ve
had it, it’s had great big chunks of salmon and white fish (I presume haddock
but I couldn’t say for sure), chunks of potato and carrot and as with much
Russian cooking, a good helping of dill (or zelyoniy, which also means ‘green’).
Finnish ukha has cream and salmon roe in it, so it is more like chowder.
MUSHROOM SOUP – the best in the world. They use Russian
forest mushrooms, which are different from English, I would maybe liken them to
cepes but again, I don’t know enough about mushrooms to really make a
judgement. Again, there is plenty of dill on top.
SOLYANKA – I literally have no idea what they put in this,
but it’s some kind of stock based soup with vegetables. I made the mistake of
telling my vegetarian friend that it had no meat in it – then she found a chunk
of sausage in it. Awkward.
BORSH – Arguably the most infamous of all Russian cuisine. This
is a beetroot soup with vegetables and sour cream (nicer than it sounds) and is
usually a fantastic shade of pink. I’ve had it served in a rye bread bowl
before and it occasionally is served with chunks of beef. One to try,
definitely. It’s a staple of Eastern European cooking, in Poland they call it
Barszcz (someone please correct my spelling on that one if it needs it).
PIROZHKI – Or ‘pastries’. Russians fill these with all manner
of sweet and savoury things – my favourite is their version of a samosa filled
with minced meat and onion and spices.
PEL’MENI – these are ravioli style dumplings that originate
from Siberia which are either served on their own or in a stock soup. They
usually have meat filling and have a strong onion flavour, but they are really rather
nice. Best served with a dollop of Smetana (sour cream) and dill. My Russian
hozeyka (hostess) in Kazan made me these when I arrived there for the first
time last year and I’ve never forgotten it – for a good reason, I should point
out!
BLINI – Russian for ‘pancakes’. Russians eat these with both
sweet and savoury fillings – my favourites are mushrooms and chicken. These are
again served with dill and Smetana – a flavour staple.
My ideal Russian meal would be mushroom soup, a chicken blin
and a Russian samosa. Yummy.
Hi! At the risk of sounding spammy, I’d love to exchange site links with you because I thought our writing was fairly related. It’s a travel site of sorts, focusing mostly on Asia. You can check out my Russian cuisine post for an idea of what we do.
ReplyDeleteHope to hear from you soon. Cheers